On a footpath winding along the high cliffs above dazzling Douarnenez Bay, I gazed down at rocky coves and a true blue sea. Occasionally, fishing and pleasure boats cut across the bay. Walking here on the Crozon Peninsula south of Brest, I heard cuckoos calling to each other from pine trees. At my feet grew tiny blue and purple wild flowers. The air was laden with a fruity fragrance, a melange of apricot and coconut, from the abundant yellow flowering gorse. As I wandered through Rostudel, a hamlet of ancient stone houses with blue and white shutters, I reflected that Brittany, which I know well from previous trips, is a perfect region for walks.
Shaped by the Atlantic, the Brittany Region offers a spectacular meeting of sea, sky and shore. Any part of the region's coast gladdens a nature lover's heart. Footpaths for walkers and hikers skirt the rugged beauty of wild rocky shores and cliffs and lead to secluded beaches and estuaries. The area is a la mode (fashionable) with the French for outdoor activities and popular with tourists in touch with nature. It's not surprising, given the tremendous opportunities for hiking, swimming, sailing, cycling.
The previous week, I landed in Paris, took the TGV (rapid train) to Brest and picked up a Renault lease (for three weeks, it was cheaper than a regular rental). With a Michelin map and a Serie Verte No. 13 map of the Brest & Quimper areas, I was on my way. Later I discovered the Serie Bleue are even more detailed.
Le Conquet, a picturesque old port west of Brest, has numerous popular paths. I hiked part of the five-mile path between Brest and Pointe de St. Mathieu, known for its mammoth lighthouse. The morning was bright and clear, the temperature invigorating for walking - coat-and-hat weather, which suited me perfectly. On the high footpath hugging the cliffs, I looked down at spectacular rocks, where waves frothed with plumes of sea spray like Chantilly lace.
By midday, however, the weather had changed. The sea and sky merged in a glazed, white glare on a seascape that now blurred and blended. The brisk air gave way to a sultry heat, and the relentless sun trapped me on the treeless path. Benumbed, dizzy, and seeing floating black dots, I lay down beneath the only available shade - a solitary stunted pine that grew in front of an isolated white-washed stucco house.
The owners of the house found me sleeping smack in the middle of the footpath. I assured them I was just taking a nap in the shade - actually, I'd slept for two hours. Concerned, they kindly invited me to their home for orange juice, herbal tea and a brioche. We spent an hour chatting and they described the thrill of storms and gave me photos they'd taken of waves lashing the rocks below the house.
Time and again I heard the Bretons express awe and admiration for the sea and delight in watching tumultuous waves. The French regard the seashore as a national heritage for all citizens to enjoy, which is why the coast of France was recently declared open to the public. Private property fences were removed to allow access to everyone.
Nowadays, paths circle Brittany's coast, with only a few small spaces still to be connected. Throughout France a superb system of trails, known as the Sentiers de Grande Randonnee (GRs), consist of some 25,000 miles. France can be explored on these trails, which average eight-feet wide and range from paved roads to narrow single-file paths. These are maintained footpaths marked with red and white signs painted on tree trunks, rocks or fence posts. Threading through mountains and forests, in and out of villages and towns, the paths offer a close-up view of France's diverse scenery.
Historically the paths are important because they were used by Knights Templars and Compostela pilgrims. From the 11th century, many of these trails were pilgrimage routes, which witnessed thousands of people walking for many months, usually in the summer, and traveling astonishing distances.
One such pilgrimage in Brittany was the Tro Breiz which every Breton man was expected to accomplish once in his life. The pilgrims visited the tombs of the seven saints who founded the bishoprics in Brittany, located in Dol, Saint-Malo, Saint-Brieuc, Treguier, Saint-Pol-de-Leon, Quimper and Vannes. Walking just over 12 miles a day, it took a pilgrim about a month to accomplish the circuit. The custom began about 1200 and stopped in the mid-1500s, during the Wars of Religion.
On my little pilgrimage, in between coastal walks I visited the parish churches near Morlaix and other interesting churches unique to Brittany. After that one hot day, the temperature returned to fresh spring weather. On my daily excursions I explored a variety of paths and I usually hiked about four hours a day. I happily went alone. Over the years, I've found that I felt perfectly safe in France (It's important to me to travel in a secure environment). Fortunately, France's countryside is blessed with friendly, civilized people.
During my stay near Le Conquet, I slept near Plougonvelin in the Saliou family's B&B, a charming, converted old stone farm surrounded by fields and meadows. The following day, I drove north to stay near Lannilis. This area has two great tidal rivers, Aber Wrac'h and Aber Benoit. At high tide, the incoming sea washes in, while at low tide, the abers' bays and harbors are completely drained of water.
The locals said that high tide is prettiest, but I found the aber shores more interesting at low tide, when fishing and pleasure boats were left high and dry, tipped on their keels. Also at this time, the dark definitions of rocks and seaweed revealed added contrasts. It was fascinating to watch the incoming tide surreptitiously raising the boats back into place on the water.
A couple of days later, I experienced a very different scenery at Carantec north of Morlaix, hiking on the GR 34 along the Bay of Morlaix. Passing delights included two tiny islands: one allows space for a castle-fort, while the other barely holds a lighthouse, a house and a few trees and shrubs. I came upon a wholesale-retail oyster business where I purchased half a dozen fresh shucked oysters on a bed of just-out-of-the-water seaweed with a wedge of lemon in a take-out box - cost $2.
Can anything beat oysters tasting of the sea? I ate on a bench in front of the islands as the gauzy light dwindled, streaking the water with textures and pink-gray reflections. The sea crept in inch by inch over the rocks with hardly a whisper.
Walking is a wonderful way of linking different worlds and bringing close-up views of nature and culture. Although I walked every day, there was time to tour numerous sites ranging from Carnac with its prehistoric stones to medieval chapels and villages and grand Gothic (14 to 15th century) cathedrals. I purchased faience (pottery) produced in Quimper, my favorite items came from the HB Henriot factory. Memorable towns were Vannes and Dinan for their huddle of winding streets protected by high medieval rampart walls.
Enchanting small ports beckoned with a wide selection of harbor-side restaurants. In St. Goustan, 15th century half-timbered houses line the old port and all but one are restaurants. Benjamin Franklin landed here during a storm in 1776. Concarneau's ancient fortified harbor has to be seen to be believed. St. Cado is another scenic gem.
Near Menez-Hom at low tide, the firm wet sand of St. Nic's wide beach gave me a superb workout. The following day, I went on the cliffs (GR 37) near Ste-Anne-la-Palud. From Pointe de Trefeuntec, two routes enticed me, one went north on the beach, while the southern way hugged jagged black rocks with wheeling gulls and views of surf (at times this trail lies very close to the precipitous edge). I walked both routes.
In this area, the curving hills look as if they're just about to roll into the sea. Tractors busily plowed the fields, creating abstract patterns. It seemed to me that these designs did far better to shape the essence of abstraction than many paintings I've seen in modern art.
It seems as if Brittany possesses the clearest sea, the greenest grass, the bluest sky. The light glows with a special quality that has inspired artists for centuries. Painters adore the scenery of Cornouaille's coast near Quimper. The landscape's compelling attraction is obvious - just take a peek at any scene. All seem worth capturing for posterity. Paul Signac painted Concarneau's harbor in 1891. Pont-Aven is still a lively artists' colony from the 1880s, the days when Paul Gauguin painted here, but nowadays in summer it's crowded with tourists.
West of Quimper, the celebrated Pointe du Raz, a protected area of 205 acres, was recently restored to its original natural state at a cost of $10 million. This windblown, storm-battered promontory nurtures only heather and gorse. On the point, walking paths give views of sensational seascapes.
The GR 34, a good coastal footpath, although at times hilly, goes for more than 18 miles from Pointe du Raz to Douarnenez and passes through Reserve du Cap Sizun, a marine bird sanctuary harboring some 300 bird species. I saw gulls, petrels and cormorants, but I failed to glimpse seals or dolphins.
The GR 34 continues south to the Pays Bigouden in Brittany's southwest corner, where the region's purest culture is still evident. Brittany is different from the rest of France and it's obvious here. Given local history, it's easy to understand the region's individualism.
Until the 16th century Brittany was an independent duchy, not part of France. When Anne of Brittany married Charles VIII in 1491, she remained its sole ruler; on his death, she married Louis XII, yet she still preserved the region's independence. The duchy passed to the French crown in 1532, when Anne's daughter Claude married Francois I.
In the Bigouden, the region's tallest lace-embroidered bonnets can be seen. They are worn to church and during pardons (medieval religious parades).
On Pointe de la Torche's beach, a protected site famous for surfing competitions, I made a bracing excursion south to Saint-Guenole. Houses defiantly face the wind-driven sea. Tightly closed shutters showed that most are holiday homes. I fantasized about buying one of them.
During my stay in the Bigouden area, I slept at Keraluic B&B, a renovated farm near Plomeur west of Pont l'Abbe. Owned by Irene and Luis Gomez, it was simple and charming and one of my favorites. It sported a whimsical detail - yellow tulips growing on the peak of the thatched roof.
In Brandivy near Vannes, I stayed in Domaine de Kerdrean, another appealing B&B. The owners, Madame Marie-Anne Demais and her son, were friendly and informative and their place is in gorgeous countryside.
Brittany offers a great variety of walks. Quiberon peninsula is swept by brisk winds. From Quiberon a ferry goes to Belle-Isle, where the 62-mile shoreline randonnee takes four days to a week. Spring and fall are best for visits as summer gets crowded. Roz Avel Restaurant up the road from Sauzon's appealing petite port serves oysters and outstanding lamb dishes (12 oysters for $13, a three course meal costs $17).
The French joie de vivre (happiness) manifests itself in their appreciation and skill in cuisine. France definitely is the land of superb food. Brittany's specialty is seafood - oysters, mussels, clams and lobster. Crepes are another regional specialty. Locals usually order "crepe complete" with ham, cheese and a fried egg ($4.50) or other varieties such as mushroom and cheese ($4.80). Desserts are banana or sugar crepes ($2). My favorite creperie was in Saint-Thegonnec. The Auberge-St-Thegonnec, a Logis de France Hotel, served exceptionally fine food.
On Ouessant Island (ferry from Le Conquet or Brest), the elements rule, determining the land's wind-swept heath, which lends a bleak look - reminding me of Wuthering Heights. A grassy footpath circles the whole island. Small houses cluster in hamlets, their doors and shutters painted bright blue, as if they've been splashed with a dash of the sea.
The island's rocky dangerous coast and winter's violent seas gave rise to amazing lighthouses. Phare de Creac'h is one of the most powerful lighthouses in the world (range 124 miles), and Phare de Nividec, begun in the 1930s, actually took 24 years to complete. Molene and Ile de Sein can be visited for a day, since they're small islands.
"All roads lead to the coast," a Breton man told me, explaining that the Breton spirit closely identifies with the sea and that 80 percent of Bretons live on the coast.
Wheeling gulls, indomitable lighthouses, sounds of waves pounding on the rocks and kindly people - these are a few of the memories that enriched my vacation and that I treasure. Brittany is the sort of place that captures your heart, and once you've discovered it, believe me - you will return.IF YOU GO
Getting there: Driving from Paris, take the A11 Autoroute to Rennes, then take the N12 to Brest or the N 24 to Quimper. Or take the TGV (express train) to Brest. Air France (800-237-2747) is France's national airline with daily flights from several U.S. cities and it shares alliances with Continental Airlines.
Being there: In France, local tourist offices supply maps and sell the guide series "Topo-guide des Sentiers de Grande Randonnee," containing detailed descriptions of paths, length, time needed and sites to visit. Also ask about museums, traditional fetes and festivals, pardons, musical events, and sports including squash, canoe and kayaking, cycling, fishing, tennis, horseriding, spas and parks.
The Reserve du Cap Sizun is open from April 1 to Aug. 31. Avoid the peak holiday season, July 10 to Aug. 20; rates will be half-price before and after. The ferries are overcrowded on most weekends.
Driving there: A car is essential for touring Brittany. I've found the most economical rental for three weeks or more is offered by Renault Eurodrive. Its package is actually a tax-free auto lease (rental) with unlimited mileage, insurance and the use of a brand-new auto. For rates, information and reservations, (800) 221-1052.
Accommodations: I stayed in Chambre d'Hotes (B&Bs) listed by the Gite Association. Saliou Family B&B near Plougonvelin, a room with bathroom for two, $50 to $52; telephone, 011-33-2-98-48-33-35. Keraluic B&B, 29120 Plomeur, a room with private bath for two is priced at $60 to $78; 011-33-2-98-82-10-22. North of Vannes near Brandivy is Domaine de Kerdrean owned by Marie-Anne Demais, rates including a private bath, $40 to $56; 011-33-2-97-56-12-50. Logis de France Hotels are reasonably priced small family-run hotels. Many offer outstanding cuisine, such as Relais de Kergou in Belz near Auray/St.Goustan; 011-33-2-97-55-35-61.
More walks: From Cap-Coz to Beg-Meil, a path winds through woods past tiny coves with clear blue-green water. A 40-mile path goes around the Gulf of Morbihan on the south coast. On the north coast, the Cotes-d'Armor path passes rose-colored granite rocks, and the Emerald Coast's Cap Frehel has grand red, gray and black cliffs. The massive ramparts cradling Saint-Malo can be walked. A path is being completed to cross the region from Mont-St.-Michel to la Roche Bernard.
Inquire about guides at the tourist offices. One agency with English-speaking tours specializing in Brittany is Randobalad, 8 rue du Louis d'Or-35000 Rennes; 011-33-2-99-30-89-11, fax, 011-33-2-99-30-88-53.
More information: contact your travel agent or the French Government Tourist hotline (410) 286-8310 or write 9454 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 303, Beverly Hills CA 90212-2967, e-mail, fgto(at)gte.net; 676 North Michigan Ave., Suite 3360, Chicago IL 60611, e-mail, fgto(at)mcs.net; 444 Madison Ave., New York, NY 10022, e-mail, info(at)francetourism.com, Web site,
www.francetourism.com. Brittany Web site, www.brittany-tourism.org, e-mail, tourism(at)region-bretagne.fr.
Patricia Woeber is a free-lance travel writer.
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